![]() ![]() ![]() 2-3 minutes with agitation and I go on to the wash. About a half film vial to a liter of water make cheap homemade HCA with a tray life of 2-3 hours. I just buy sodium sulfite by the pound from eBay, it's also sold at some stores as it's a food preservative. So HCA (Hypo clear) is the next step if you want to save water. I get clean fiber prints in a low as 30 minutes I start with a solid rinse, like 2 trays of water with some agitation - that gets like 90% of the fixer, but the rest is soaked into the fibers of the paper. You don't have to test every last print, but if you test one or two in a current session that use the same paper, fix, fixing time and wash strategy it will give you some peace of mind. It's really the only way to ensure complete washing (without wasting a lot of water and over-washing to be sure). A bottle will last for years it does leave a permanent stain, so you leave a little extra border on one edge of the print that can be trimmed or matted off. ![]() But fiber takes significantly more washing than RC - a smart move is to get a bottle of Residual Hypo Test. Was that the setup that filters the water? I remember someone posting about that. Fit an 8" or so piece of PVC in the drain (so the tub water reaches 8" and overflows), and you can wash prints all day. In the US, a shower head screws onto a 1/2" pipe thread that pokes out of the wall you can get a 1/2" female-to-barb fitting, screw it on, and run some tubing across to the far end of the tub. Setup to print with a table for trays in a well-darkened space, and then wash prints in the bath tub. But it may be easier to find a space with a standard issue bathroom with a tub. If you can find a space where the drain and supply plumbing is accessible, it's fairly easy to tap into it and even return it to normal when you move on. Hauling all that water around is gonna be a big pain. You generally need three trays for B&W (dev, stop and fix) and some way to wash prints. rigging up a pump), but man - you really need a fair amount of water to print B&W.Īs far as a sink size, printing 8x10's is a different beast than printing 20x24, and DIY sinks are usually designed around your own needs and workflow. You could put a 5 gallon bucket up on a stand with a spigot that dribbles into a wash tray, and the tray drains into another bucket (vs. RC prints should still have a 5 minute (minimum) wash in running water. It's all a big pain as far as printing goes, and washing B&W fiber prints takes a fair amount of running water. You could easily get some jugs (know any cat owners? Buy them some litter in those giant plastic jugs and ask for the jugs back) and a 5-gallon bucket for a drain. But you'd usually buy some drain hardware and tap that into the building's sewer/drain plumbing. Many people just build a sink from plywood, polyurethane glue, and porch paint or epoxy garage-floor paint. ![]() It's more a way to have trays in a space where splashes are contained, and where rinsing off trays is controlled a bit. Darkooms with sinks and plumbing are really more necessary for printing.ĭarkroom sinks aren't like regular kitchen sinks or bath tubs - they generally don't get filled with water and have it sit there. control for developing film (or alt process stuff), and you can develop your film in your kitchen. ![]()
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